Want to be growing watermelon? How about learning to grow cubed watermelon or sugarbaby watermelon? We will teach you in this article.
The best way to enjoy a big, juicy, sweet treat in the summer is to grow your own watermelon. Learn how to develop the best fruits and how to plant watermelons from seeds or beginnings.
Growing Watermelon Basics For Making Healthy Watermelon
Nearly every food item that is grown at home tastes better than its supermarket equivalent, but watermelon may be the most improved. You don’t know watermelon until you bite into your own homegrown melon that’s still warm from the sun; it’s packed full of so much more luscious, rich flavor than anything you can purchase at a supermarket! Let us engage in making healthy watermelon.
The good news is that growing watermelon is not too difficult. Give it some room to spread out and it’s fairly maintenance-free, although it needs a lengthy season and does best in hot conditions. Let’s get your melons growing.
When should I plant watermelon?
About 80 to 90 days after the seeds are sown are needed for the watermelon to reach maturity, and the fruit hates chilly temperatures. When the earth has warmed to about 70°F and there are no more anticipated cool nights, you can plant your watermelon. This is actually two to three weeks after many people’s last spring frost date.
To grow a full-sized watermelon, watermelons need 80 to 90 days from the time the seeds are sown. Some watermelons of lesser sizes, such as Sugar Baby, can mature in less than 70 days.
How do I grow watermelon from seed?
How To Sow Seeds Directly Into The Soil.
- Before you plant your watermelon seeds, add compost to the soil, ideally 1 to 2 inches deep.
- Sow seeds in tiny hills or rows spaced 36 inches apart, in the soil, 7–14 days following your last frost date. Plant 6-8 seeds per hill; every 36′′ in the rows, plant 2-3 seeds.
- Use small snips to thin the seedlings to 2-3 per hill or one plant every 36′′ in a row once they have begun to grow and the actual leaves have formed (not the initial leaves that came up with the seedling).
How to start watermelon seedlings indoors.
(only recommended for cooler climates or to ensure germination)
- Seed starting medium should be poured into a sizable seedling pot or soil block. We prefer to use four parts coco coir, two parts vermiculite, and one part perlite.
- Plant two to three seeds in each pot, about 1/2 inch deep (doing so will guarantee at least one germination).
- Keep the soil uniformly moist until the seeds sprout (a mist or spray bottle works nicely for this).
- Keep the seeds warm, ideally where the soil can remain between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. To reach this temperature, a heat mat is likely necessary. Within seven to ten days, seedlings will start to appear.
- Use small snips to remove all except the strongest seedling from each pot once you see the first set of true leaves (these are the leaves that resemble melon leaves, not the initial leaves that appeared when the seed first germinated).
- Plant the watermelon seedlings 36′′ apart in the garden seven to fourteen days following your last frost date.
Learn more about transferring seedlings and setting up the soil here at growfully.com
Cubed watermelons are very popular and are trending everywhere on the interweb. However, this doesn’t mean they are going to be delicious. They are not cubed or square by nature and are in fact human-made by design.
The cubed watermelon is easy to fit in your fridge which is why they are designed like this. The Japanese use them as decorations and not for eating because they do not ripen in their containers. They use the same process I discussed above but they put them in cubed boxes. The boxes cause them to not ripen.
Here is how to cut a watermelon into cubes.
This process is not from a cubed watermelon but from the round natural sweet watermelon, enjoy!
- Cut a watermelon in half.
- Cut one of the watermelon halves in half.
- Half one of these watermelon halves you made.
- Slice the watermelon from 3 sides.
- Empty the contents into a bowl.
- You now have some cubed watermelon.
- Repeat this process to all parts of the watermelon to fill your bowel and enjoy.
Need a visual? Here is a video I have found for you!
Growing Sugarbaby Watermelons
Here is some information you may enjoy.
What are sugarbaby watermelons?
The extraordinarily high “brix” measurement of a Sugar Baby watermelon is an intriguing fact. What does the term “brix” mean? Commercial watermelon producers prize melons with a lot of sugar; this sweetness is known as “brix” and can be quantified. Sugar Baby watermelons are among the sweetest watermelon varieties and, as their name suggests, have a brix measurement of 10.2. The watermelon species Citrullus lanatus, sometimes known as Sugar Baby watermelon, grows extremely well.
Sugar Baby watermelons are small enough to fit in an icebox and are spherical “picnic” or “icebox” watermelons ideal for small households. They measure 7 to 8 inches (18–20 cm) across and weigh 8 to 10 pounds (4-5 kg). They are either medium green with dark rind veins or dark green with minor black veins. The flesh is sweet, red, firm, and crisp as previously indicated, speckled with only a few tiny, tan-black seeds.
All watermelons, including Sugar Baby melons, need warm, dry weather to grow. This early watermelon cultivar, which matures in 75 to 80 days, was initially made available in 1956. The vines need to be at least 12 feet (4 meters) long for them to thrive in Mediterranean climes, where each plant can yield two to three melons.
The majority of growers begin this melon from seed indoors at least six to eight weeks before planting it outdoors. Rich, permeable soil that has been improved with compost and composted manure is required for these melons. Place each plant in a location that receives at least eight hours of direct sunlight each day and give it at least 60 square feet of room.
A watermelon that matures in the early summer, Sugar Baby, takes about 75–85 days from germination to maturity. Sugar Baby is one of the simpler types to grow due to the tiny size of the fruits and quick time to harvest.
I use YARA Kristalon Red NPK 12:12:36 + (B)Yara Calcinit 15.5% N + 26.3% CaO as my fertilizer. Make stock solutions A and B out of the fertilizer.
When initially transplanting, combine in an identical ratio and diluted to EC 1.5. Every week, the EC is increased by 0.2. restricted to EC3.1 for the rest of the season.